Wheel Stud Replacement
Who would have thought replacing a wheel stud would require a writeup but it actually takes a fair amount of work to do them on the 3000GT VR4. This guide is for replacing a front wheel stud.
12mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 32mm sockets
1/2 inch drive 24 inch breaker bar
5 pound sledgehammer
Jack up the front end of the car and remove the wheel. Put a jackstand under that side of the car and lower the car down so that the opposite wheel is firmly touching the ground. Put the car in gear (engine of of course). Get your favorite helper to stand on the brake pedal for the next step. Now remove the cotter pin from the axel nut and put the huge 32mm socket and breaker bar on the axel nut. With your helper standing on the brake pedal, jump on the handle of the bar until the nut breaks loose. It shouldn't be too hard with the brakes locked as well as the car being in gear.
Once you have the axel nut loose, remove it and then remove the two 17mm nuts that hold the caliper and hang the caliper from the suspension to get it out of the way and remove the rotor. Next, remove the cotter pin for the steering linkage and loosen the 19mm castle nut. Now pound out the tie rod end to disconnect the steering. Now, remove the 12mm nut that connects the wheel speed sensor line to the suspension and remove the bolt that holds it to the brake shield so we can move this line out of the way. Next mark the 17mm eccentric camber bolt at the arrow so you will be able to restore the alignment settings later. Go ahead and remove the two 17mm bolts holding the knuckle to the suspension and you should be able to tap out the axel with a rubber mallet.
Almost there. Now we need to remove the four 17mm nuts that hold the hubs to the knuckles. Break them loose and remove the hubs. Inspect the bearings for play as they may need to be replaced if they have more than a little play. Now get the 5 pound sledge and pound out the old wheel studs. Only one of mine had broken but when you go this far you may as well replace all five studs.
I was having trouble getting the new studs to go in straight so I decided to use the wheel to center each stud and get them started. After several turns of the wrench I couldn't get leverage with the wheel loose so I temporarily fitted the hub on the axel and mounted the wheel up. I then lowered the car down a little so the wheel would make contact and prevent the turning while I pulled the studs into the hub with the lug nuts.
Once the studs were firmly seated I removed the wheel and mounted the hub and tightened up the four 17mm nuts. I don't know what the torque specs were, I just made them good and tight.
When putting everything back together, don't forget to align your mark for the camber setting. Finally, use a new cotter pin when reinstalling the axel nut.