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Throttle Body Rebuild
As part of my upper engine rebuild I decided to tear down the throttle body, replace the shaft o-rings to prevent a common source of boost leaks, chrome the aluminum housings and rebuild. Here's a picture of all the parts after the initial teardown:
For a comprehensive guide check out http://www.ca.dsm.org/FAQ/tb-shaftseals.html There are a couple of things to mention about dissassembly. First, the screws in the throttle plate WILL strip out if you are not careful because they have been "peened" on the back to prevent walking out and getting sucked into your intake. I was able to use a NEW phillips #2 screwdriver to remove them by using alot of down pressure as I turned them. The other screws that WILL strip are the five screws that hold on the FIAV housing to the main housing. The only tool that WILL work in removing them is an impact driver like the Lisle 29200:
The great thing about this tool is the separate 3/8 drive. I had messed up the heads of 3 out of the 5 screws before I got the impact driver and started working with it. With the heads rounded out I decided to hammer a 2 mm square drive bit into the heads and used the 3/8 impact drive to work out the screws. Here are the parts back after chroming:
Those old screws are NOT going back in. I ordered metric chrome socket head cap screws to replace them. Also new here is the FIAV gasket MD614406 and new shaft seals Mach V Motorsports has the seals Here. These are the same throttle shaft seals recommended by the DSM community and appear to be direct replacements. No need to reuse the old metal sleeves you saved after chipping out the hardened rubber LOL. The seals have the metal built in just like the originals. While you're in there you might want to replace some of the following items:
MD608806 - Biss o-ring
MD614948 - Biss screw
MD614532 - Biss cap- most people are actually missing this little plug/cap
MD614417 - ISC/IAC o-ring
You SHOULD mark the exact location of the TPS before removal as well as the exact position of the locknut on the fine thread screw (fixed SAS). I did but ended up adjusting them again after assembly. Also, the throttle plate can only go in one way so be sure to mark which side faces the Y pipe and which side is UP. When installing the shaft seals, use a small amount of lithium grease to prevent tearing the rubber. The throttle plate screws need to be installed with blue loctite to prevent the screws from walking back out. If you destroyed your screws getting them out you will need to get some M4 0.7 pitch x 10mm with oval heads. You can find these at McMaster-Carr. Be sure to put these in with loctite
Here's a pic of the completed assembly. Note I mounted the TPS backwards here and forgot to take a new pic when I corrected it. The TPS connector should be facing the camera.
While we have access, we should check the ISC coil resistance:
If you failed to mark the TPS or SAS lock nut location here is the precedure for resetting them:
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